Use vos with almost everyone
In Buenos Aires, vos is the everyday you for friends, family, coworkers, shopkeepers and strangers alike. A porteño who uses vos with you is treating you as an equal; it is warm, not rude.
✽ A little culture ✽
How porteños greet, eat, talk and what their words actually mean, so your Spanish lands like a local's.
The Buenos Aires rule is simple: vos is the local you, usted is for formality, and tú is nobody here.
In Buenos Aires, vos is the everyday you for friends, family, coworkers, shopkeepers and strangers alike. A porteño who uses vos with you is treating you as an equal; it is warm, not rude.
Reserve usted for someone much older you don't know, a doctor, a judge, a very formal letter, or a customer. Many workplaces simply use vos even with the boss.
Porteños understand tú perfectly because of media from other countries, but nobody uses it in Buenos Aires. A sentence like tú eres sounds like a textbook or a Spaniard. If you are unsure, vos is the safe local choice.
For any group of people, porteños say ustedes: ustedes van, ustedes son. Vosotros exists only in Spain. If you are addressing a crowd, ustedes always works.
Take the tú form, drop the final i or s, and stress the last syllable.
Lunfardo, the slang of Buenos Aires, was born in the port neighborhoods in the late 1800s, shaped by Italian, Spanish and African immigrants.
hey, buddy: the word porteños use to get someone's attention
Of disputed origin: some trace it to the Mapuche word che, meaning person; others to Italian settlers. It is now the single most Argentine word there is.
work or job
From lavoro, Italian for work, brought by Genoese immigrants. El laburo, laburar: to work.
a mess, chaos
From kilombo, a Kimbundu word for the fortified settlements of escaped enslaved people in Brazil. In Argentina it drifted to mean any mess: un quilombo.
beer
Straight from Italian birra, itself from German Bier. Vamos por una birra: let's go for a beer.
leg, and also a thousand pesos
Italian gamba, leg. In lunfardo it became slang for leg, then for 1,000 pesos, and hacer la gamba means to help someone out.
food, a meal
Classic lunfardo, likely from morfar, to eat, which traces back to French morfer. ¿Hay morfi?: is there food?
great, classy, excellent
Possibly from Genoese bacan, a family head or a wealthy man. Now it just means something is really good: está bacán.
money
Old lunfardo, from guita, thin wire, stretched into slang for cash. No tengo guita: I'm broke.
bus
Popular porteño word for the colectivo, common in the neighborhoods and in cumbia lyrics.
coffee
Cockney style backslang: feca is café backwards, a lunfardo trick called vesre. Así que toma feca: so he drinks coffee.
One kiss on the right cheek, el beso, between everyone: women and women, men and women, and men and men who know each other. Porteños give it when they meet and when they say goodbye, even in the office. A handshake is for formal business only.
Che just means hey or hey you, and porteños use it a hundred times a day with anyone, even people they just met. Che, boludo is for close friends only; boludo among men is affectionate, but never use it with a stranger, a boss or a woman you don't know.
People drink mate from one gourd with a metal straw, the bombilla, and pass it around a circle. When you want to stop, say gracias after drinking: that is the polite signal you're done. Refilling your own mate is for when you are alone.
Lunch runs from about 12:30 to 2. Dinner rarely starts before 9, and restaurants and clubs fill up after 10. After eating, porteños linger at the table talking: that is the sobremesa, and it can last hours.
On the 29th of each month many families eat ñoquis (gnocchi), an Italian inheritance. Tradition says to put a banknote under the plate for luck, so telling someone you are el ñoqui de la empresa, the person who shows up to work only on the 29th, is a gentle joke about laziness.
Arriving 20 to 30 minutes after the stated time to a dinner or a party is expected. Showing up exactly on time can even catch the host mid cleanup. For work, punctuality is normal; for friends, flexible.
Porteños stand closer than North Americans, touch more, and gesture a lot while they talk. Stepping back can read as coldness rather than politeness.
On a crowded colectivo you say ¿bajan? (are you getting off?) to the people in front so they move to the rear door. On the subte, people hold out a hand to strangers to ask them to pass, and it works.
The teacher guide has ready to use lesson plans and printable vocabulary sets built around voseo, lunfardo and these customs.
Open the teacher guide